We carved a second pumpkin tonight. I went back to the market and found the sole merchant who had had them. She had three of them originally. Now she had two because I had bought Clementina. No one had bought one since then, so I bought the second one.
E helped a lot this time, after sketching out the face he wanted me to carve, this one with a mouth similar to his dog's. I like how exciting this has been for him and that for the rest of his life he will know how to do this.
He named this one "Vampire Zuke".
Wednesday, October 27, 2010
Monday, October 25, 2010
No such thing as underdoing it here
Yesterday I stumbled upon a less typical gelato store; this one sold it popsicle-style. I decided to be good and ordered one that was a fruit ice. "Dunked in chocolate?" the woman asked, ruining my plan. "Well, okay." "Dark, milk, or white chocolate?" "Dark." "The top, half of it, or all of it?" "Half of it." "Rolled in nuts?" "Sure." Man, these Italians!
World's Cutest Car
Bike Lanes
Photo Op
The photo store I have been going to here is also an optometry office and store. People are buying cameras while other people are getting eye exams and picking out eyeglass frames. All in the same small space.
The guy who helped me with my camera-computer downloading problem was an optometrist. He was wearing a white coat and had just helped someone with their eyeglass prescription. It was kind of funny, but at the same time it made perfect sense. When you learn about the physics of the eye and brain, you see the similarity to shooting with a camera. And when you learn how a camera works, you see how it parallels how vision works.
"Also, your pictures are not in a good....mood," the optometrist said.
"My pictures are not in a good mood?" I repeated, trying not to laugh. "Yes, he said, "you must fix it so they are in a good mood. I show you."
It turns out he was trying to tell me to up the pixel setting on my camera. I did, and now my pictures are in a much better mood.
The guy who helped me with my camera-computer downloading problem was an optometrist. He was wearing a white coat and had just helped someone with their eyeglass prescription. It was kind of funny, but at the same time it made perfect sense. When you learn about the physics of the eye and brain, you see the similarity to shooting with a camera. And when you learn how a camera works, you see how it parallels how vision works.
"Also, your pictures are not in a good....mood," the optometrist said.
"My pictures are not in a good mood?" I repeated, trying not to laugh. "Yes, he said, "you must fix it so they are in a good mood. I show you."
It turns out he was trying to tell me to up the pixel setting on my camera. I did, and now my pictures are in a much better mood.
The Great Pumpkin Goes to School
Today was the big day at school, the Great Pumpkin Presentation. For a second last night I felt I was preparing for presentations I did in the past - for adults - reviewing my notes, planning the time frame, making sure I had packed everything.
The day to carry a large pumpkin should not be when it is pouring out (I taught the word "teeming" to the housekeeper). Clementina was well-wrapped in plastic bags. I arrived at the school and realized I was completely prepared for what I would say and do, but not prepared for anything more practical. For example, the school was locked. And there was no buzzer. When some nice man let me in (bad, bad, letting in a stranger), I realized I did not know the number of the classroom. Or the word for classroom. Or which grade E was in. I thought it was fourth, but it might be third.
I wandered around saying the teacher's name with a question mark, and ended up at the lunchroom. I was asked if I wanted to eat something and I said no, just some water. I was asked a second time by someone else, and again said no, thank you, just some water. Then a man came over - he looked like the superintendent, although he might have had a different role as he was wearing a track suit. He put a plate of food in front of me. Shredded carrots with some unidentifiable other vegetable in it, and some croquettes - I think. I really couldn't tell whether they had chicken in them, just grains, or the "other white meat." I have learned in this country you need to eat what is in front of you. He came back with a paper towel as a placemat. Random children walked by and said, "Ciao" to me as they passed.
I set up in the art room, making samples of everything they would make. Wow, schools everywhere are hurting. Magic markers that are dried out, missing colors of paper, limited supplies. I will definitely donate my teaching materials to the school if the family does not want them.
The kids were great. I kept thinking of American classrooms with children bouncing off the walls and classroom control a key skill. Children here were really compliant. Not reserved though - but respectful. They listened intently to my stories about Halloween in the States, and were excited to hear my niece had dressed one year as a red M&M and my nephew as Harry Potter. They thought you had to dress as something scary. They "oohed" loudly when I mentioned we grew up in a building that had 17 stories and two sides, and it would take us the whole night to go from door to door. They called my building a skyscraper.
I taught them three different Halloween crafts: a pumpkin, a spider, and a ghost. By far, the ghost-making was the most popular. And most of the children wanted to go beyond the eyes and mouth (think 'The Scream') and dress their ghosts up. This is Italy after all, the fashion capital of the world. "Can I put a tie on him?", many of the boys asked, and one of the girls used gold lame instead of the white felt. Another asked if she could put make-up on her ghost, and added red cheeks and eyelashes.
I took pictures of every child with their finished product, and they were so natural in front of the camera. Little models, all of them.
Afterward, we drew the shades and turned out the lights and had them close their eyes. We put the tea light in Clementina and the children loved it. They repeated "Jack-o-lantern" with me and the teacher. Then they each got two Lindt chocolates, a pumpkin and a ghost, courtesy of C. The teacher said, "I don't know how to thank you" and kissed me. She was lovely.
I stayed after cleaning up, and children from other classes would walk by, see the pumpkin, and run and get their friends to show them. Now E wants a second pumpkin, since Clementina was donated to the classroom. I'll see if I can find one.
The day to carry a large pumpkin should not be when it is pouring out (I taught the word "teeming" to the housekeeper). Clementina was well-wrapped in plastic bags. I arrived at the school and realized I was completely prepared for what I would say and do, but not prepared for anything more practical. For example, the school was locked. And there was no buzzer. When some nice man let me in (bad, bad, letting in a stranger), I realized I did not know the number of the classroom. Or the word for classroom. Or which grade E was in. I thought it was fourth, but it might be third.
I wandered around saying the teacher's name with a question mark, and ended up at the lunchroom. I was asked if I wanted to eat something and I said no, just some water. I was asked a second time by someone else, and again said no, thank you, just some water. Then a man came over - he looked like the superintendent, although he might have had a different role as he was wearing a track suit. He put a plate of food in front of me. Shredded carrots with some unidentifiable other vegetable in it, and some croquettes - I think. I really couldn't tell whether they had chicken in them, just grains, or the "other white meat." I have learned in this country you need to eat what is in front of you. He came back with a paper towel as a placemat. Random children walked by and said, "Ciao" to me as they passed.
I set up in the art room, making samples of everything they would make. Wow, schools everywhere are hurting. Magic markers that are dried out, missing colors of paper, limited supplies. I will definitely donate my teaching materials to the school if the family does not want them.
The kids were great. I kept thinking of American classrooms with children bouncing off the walls and classroom control a key skill. Children here were really compliant. Not reserved though - but respectful. They listened intently to my stories about Halloween in the States, and were excited to hear my niece had dressed one year as a red M&M and my nephew as Harry Potter. They thought you had to dress as something scary. They "oohed" loudly when I mentioned we grew up in a building that had 17 stories and two sides, and it would take us the whole night to go from door to door. They called my building a skyscraper.
I taught them three different Halloween crafts: a pumpkin, a spider, and a ghost. By far, the ghost-making was the most popular. And most of the children wanted to go beyond the eyes and mouth (think 'The Scream') and dress their ghosts up. This is Italy after all, the fashion capital of the world. "Can I put a tie on him?", many of the boys asked, and one of the girls used gold lame instead of the white felt. Another asked if she could put make-up on her ghost, and added red cheeks and eyelashes.
I took pictures of every child with their finished product, and they were so natural in front of the camera. Little models, all of them.
Afterward, we drew the shades and turned out the lights and had them close their eyes. We put the tea light in Clementina and the children loved it. They repeated "Jack-o-lantern" with me and the teacher. Then they each got two Lindt chocolates, a pumpkin and a ghost, courtesy of C. The teacher said, "I don't know how to thank you" and kissed me. She was lovely.
I stayed after cleaning up, and children from other classes would walk by, see the pumpkin, and run and get their friends to show them. Now E wants a second pumpkin, since Clementina was donated to the classroom. I'll see if I can find one.
Sunday, October 24, 2010
Grand Old Flags
I helped E with his English homework earlier. We were sailing along until we got to the part where you were supposed to identify the flags of other countries. Then I was of little help. Britain and Italy, sure, but how many of you know the flags and colors of Spain? China? Australia? Abania? Interestingly, those were also ones to identify and then color in correctly.
Modena is not so modern-a
I learned something today. Don't go to a small Italian town on a Sunday. Especially if you have had a lot of water beforehand.
On Sundays, outside of the bigger cities, Italy closes up. And even in the cities, some stores close and people tend to be homebodies. Modena was a ghost town. Nothing was open and almost no one was out. So much for buying balsamic there, at least today.
I found a couple of cafes open on a street that had some hotels. Ate a spinach thing with a carrot torte and a bag of olive chips with the locals and watched some athletes being interviewed on the screen. Went to use the facilities....if you were there, you would have heard me exclaim, "Are you kidding me?". And then, going out and checking the door, "Wait, is this really unisex?"
Those of you who have been in Turkey, or Israel, or other countries that are more developed in some areas than in others, know there are different kinds of bathrooms, and you hope you get the good kind. In Turkey, there are so-called "Western bathrooms" and "Eastern bathrooms". Western is what you know. Eastern was what I found in Modena. Let's just say there are two places to put your feet and a hole, and all your energy goes to praying you won't lose your balance.
Never thought I'd find that in Italy. Good thing I had previous training.
I did find a beautiful church open. It was interesting to see the priests readying it for what seemed to be a wedding later. I walked past the confessional booth and was surprised that the "confessor's area" was not secluded. It was just two armchairs facing each other with a little table in between. Kind of like therapy in the States.
I talked with a young interracial couple outside the church. I wonder what they must confront in their lives in Modena. There are definitely class and race issues here, although that is slowly changing as more foreigners relocate here. But African-Americans are not seen that often, except those selling knockoffs in the market areas, which influences stereotyping.
A highlight on the way back to the station - a rosy-cheeked woman with a nice smile roasting fresh chestnuts at a roadside stand. They were wonderful. The paper bag was burning hot when I got them, and it made my tote bag smell great.
On Sundays, outside of the bigger cities, Italy closes up. And even in the cities, some stores close and people tend to be homebodies. Modena was a ghost town. Nothing was open and almost no one was out. So much for buying balsamic there, at least today.
I found a couple of cafes open on a street that had some hotels. Ate a spinach thing with a carrot torte and a bag of olive chips with the locals and watched some athletes being interviewed on the screen. Went to use the facilities....if you were there, you would have heard me exclaim, "Are you kidding me?". And then, going out and checking the door, "Wait, is this really unisex?"
Those of you who have been in Turkey, or Israel, or other countries that are more developed in some areas than in others, know there are different kinds of bathrooms, and you hope you get the good kind. In Turkey, there are so-called "Western bathrooms" and "Eastern bathrooms". Western is what you know. Eastern was what I found in Modena. Let's just say there are two places to put your feet and a hole, and all your energy goes to praying you won't lose your balance.
Never thought I'd find that in Italy. Good thing I had previous training.
I did find a beautiful church open. It was interesting to see the priests readying it for what seemed to be a wedding later. I walked past the confessional booth and was surprised that the "confessor's area" was not secluded. It was just two armchairs facing each other with a little table in between. Kind of like therapy in the States.
I talked with a young interracial couple outside the church. I wonder what they must confront in their lives in Modena. There are definitely class and race issues here, although that is slowly changing as more foreigners relocate here. But African-Americans are not seen that often, except those selling knockoffs in the market areas, which influences stereotyping.
A highlight on the way back to the station - a rosy-cheeked woman with a nice smile roasting fresh chestnuts at a roadside stand. They were wonderful. The paper bag was burning hot when I got them, and it made my tote bag smell great.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Pumpkin update
It's fun here because pumpkins are a rarity and Halloween still a novel concept. No one had seen the inside of a pumpkin before, so hands went inside and everyone got to take a look. I commented that the pumpkin's head was bigger than E's, and he held it up to see. Every time I carved another facial feature, everyone was excited. The grandmother was here and was fascinated. Tomorrow I will show them how to roast seeds and make pumpkin bread.
They named him Clementina, because of his color. He is sitting in the kitchen window sill right now, looking happy. I will take him to school with me on Monday to show the class.
Speed-dating update
The event was canceled, due to low numbers. Um, maybe it's because they are unavailable and not organized? I sent them two emails to register, and my friend called them multiple times and was put on hold for 15-20 minutes at a time. They never responded to either of us. According to the mother of the family I am living with, this is typical for Italy. People just don't get back to you in the business world. According to the women at my Florence friend's house last weekend, 'customer service' is a nonexistent concept here. Or at best slooooow and complicated.
For me it would have been just fun but I feel bad for R. Meeting people here is more difficult than in the States, if you want to branch outside of your regular circles. The internet is not used for meeting people yet here, and singles events are few and far between.
For me it would have been just fun but I feel bad for R. Meeting people here is more difficult than in the States, if you want to branch outside of your regular circles. The internet is not used for meeting people yet here, and singles events are few and far between.
Cooties
They don't cover their mouths here when they cough. They just cough right at you as they walk by on the street.
And no one says "Bless you!" when you sneeze here. Or equivalent. There is an equivalent but no one uses it.
Eggs are sold unrefrigerated here. They are right there on the shelves next to the canned goods.
Somehow it's working out, though I am sneezing unblessed and exposed to germs and salmonella.
And no one says "Bless you!" when you sneeze here. Or equivalent. There is an equivalent but no one uses it.
Eggs are sold unrefrigerated here. They are right there on the shelves next to the canned goods.
Somehow it's working out, though I am sneezing unblessed and exposed to germs and salmonella.
Wednesday, October 20, 2010
Girls' Night In
My friend S had a Girls' Night last weekend in Florence. All had married Italians, about half were American and the others from other European countries. Only English was spoken, and no boys were allowed. It was great to have free-flowing conversation, share funny stories, sit around a table with great food, and just be chicks. Afterward they did a clothing swap.
One woman who was from another part of Europe told a funny story about a time when she was arrested briefly. At the end of it, she said with much gusto, "And then - can you believe it - the policeman put cufflinks on me! He took me away in cufflinks!" My American friend and I were in hysterics. "He took her away in cufflinks, and a cummerbund!" I said. "And a top hat!" she added.
One woman who was from another part of Europe told a funny story about a time when she was arrested briefly. At the end of it, she said with much gusto, "And then - can you believe it - the policeman put cufflinks on me! He took me away in cufflinks!" My American friend and I were in hysterics. "He took her away in cufflinks, and a cummerbund!" I said. "And a top hat!" she added.
It's the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown
So the teacher at school wants me to come in and talk to the students about Halloween in the States. She wants real examples, like how it is celebrated, and what I did as a child. I will tell her about my brother and I would go door-to-door for hours in our building and come home with bags of candy that lasted till New Year's. Trick-or-treating has not caught on here yet. The children who do celebrate Halloween simply get dressed up, and everyone seems to think you must be either a witch or a ghost.
I will also mention the time when we went trick-or-treating with our friend from the building, and we rang the doorbell of an elderly woman who was known for her bad moods. "I'm not home!" she yelled from behind the door.
The teacher wants me to carve a pumpkin and bring it with me. I've never carved a pumpkin in my life. Everyone here is surprised that I don't know how to do it. I guess Americans are supposed to know these things. I'm hoping for beginner's luck. Apparently, there are definite do's and don't's.
The first task was finding a pumpkin. Well, first finding the word for pumpkin, which is "zucca".
I went to the vegetable market, but no one had them. If they did, they were being sold in slices, or they were these strange-looking beige things. I looked up the words for "whole" and for "round".
Finally I found one stand that had three of them. I picked the roundest-looking one, which is really more of a rectangular shape. The boy and his friend who were over were very excited to see it. The dog went crazy trying to jump high enough to see it on the counter. When the mother came home, she brought it to the floor for him to check out. He thought it was a very large ball for him and started to play soccer with it.
I will also mention the time when we went trick-or-treating with our friend from the building, and we rang the doorbell of an elderly woman who was known for her bad moods. "I'm not home!" she yelled from behind the door.
The teacher wants me to carve a pumpkin and bring it with me. I've never carved a pumpkin in my life. Everyone here is surprised that I don't know how to do it. I guess Americans are supposed to know these things. I'm hoping for beginner's luck. Apparently, there are definite do's and don't's.
The first task was finding a pumpkin. Well, first finding the word for pumpkin, which is "zucca".
I went to the vegetable market, but no one had them. If they did, they were being sold in slices, or they were these strange-looking beige things. I looked up the words for "whole" and for "round".
Finally I found one stand that had three of them. I picked the roundest-looking one, which is really more of a rectangular shape. The boy and his friend who were over were very excited to see it. The dog went crazy trying to jump high enough to see it on the counter. When the mother came home, she brought it to the floor for him to check out. He thought it was a very large ball for him and started to play soccer with it.
Contento Meals
So tonight I was asked to take the boy to McDonald's for dinner, as a treat. As an American friend of mine said, kids eat amazing and fresh food here all the time, yet ironically fast food is a prize in a child's eyes. I've been to McDonald's (pronounced "Mc-Doh-nohd's" here) maybe five times in my life, and not since high school at a friend's house in the Jersey burbs. And as some of you New Yorkers know, they tend to attract a lot of loitering no-goods.
I went online to see what was considered the healthiest options and chose in advance.
Turns out the menu here is not what you'd find in the States. You can get a Caprese salad, for example, the cheese on the burgers was mozzarella, and the dressing on the side I got was olive oil and vinegar. You can still get McNuggets and fries (and E did, ordering for himself since the staff didn't speak English there, and I didn't have time to look up how to say, "No ice" and "Don't forget the toy" for him) but generally speaking, it's better for the arteries than in the States.
I like being in a country where men, even young men, turn around while waiting on line, see a child, smile warmly at him, and cup their hand around his cheek.
I'm not representing America well. I don't frequent fast food joints and I have never carved a pumpkin.
I went online to see what was considered the healthiest options and chose in advance.
Turns out the menu here is not what you'd find in the States. You can get a Caprese salad, for example, the cheese on the burgers was mozzarella, and the dressing on the side I got was olive oil and vinegar. You can still get McNuggets and fries (and E did, ordering for himself since the staff didn't speak English there, and I didn't have time to look up how to say, "No ice" and "Don't forget the toy" for him) but generally speaking, it's better for the arteries than in the States.
I like being in a country where men, even young men, turn around while waiting on line, see a child, smile warmly at him, and cup their hand around his cheek.
I'm not representing America well. I don't frequent fast food joints and I have never carved a pumpkin.
Mix-up at the hospital?
People here keep asking me if I am from Spain.
In the States, people ask me if I am Italian. For decades now.
I just tell people what I am - a fourth-generation New Yorker.
In the States, people ask me if I am Italian. For decades now.
I just tell people what I am - a fourth-generation New Yorker.
Tuesday, October 19, 2010
the river Arno from Ponte Vecchio
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